Adding earth pigments.

The last step is pretty similar to the first rust step.  I got a mixture of pigments to give me more tonal difference which is the key to realism.  I've used rubble dust, brick dust, dry mud and a tiny amount of african earth.

 Same as with the rust you now just have to literally just put it on dry with the brush at irregular intervals all over the ground.

 Next grab a fairly wide brush and load it with thinners for washes and soak and mix all the thats on the base, randomly remember and dont worry about splashing a little up the side of the building.

It will look a little like this once done.

Then once dry it will lighten up considerably and look like this.

Now we want the building to fit in with the base. This is called homologation, its tieing the entire model into one cohesive model.  to do this to the building we have to be slightly more subtle about it.  we have to add multiple pigments again but with a dry brush and this time we brush into the suface of the model.  I didnt do it all the way up the model just halfway up the first section.

Next you have to touch the area lightly with a brush loaded with thinners for washes and let capillary action soak it into the pigment.  I then brushed it downwards to thin it out and mix the colours.

Now when this dries it will look unnatural as the pigment will just abruptly stop.

 To fix this you take a large brush thats dry and clean and brush, rub, flick the pigment upwards blending the colours gently into the building.  Once its to your satisfaction thats it. All done.  Congratulations, with no massive detail work or crazy artistic skills you made a realistic building.

Rust streaks.

Stage 3 of the bastion will need some rusty streaking!!  This is very similar to adding depth to flat surfaces, you will need oils, red, orange and brown.
On your palette you will have to mix them to get a similar colour as your rust. You will need two brushes, one small one to apply the oils and one to rub off the the excess and streak the paint.

Take your mix and then apply to the areas where you want the streaking to start.

Now its simply a case of taking the clean medium soft brush and dipping it in some turpentine and rubbing off the excess.  Now simply drag the oil in the direction you want to streak, if its too strong just keep removing the paint with soft downward strokes. If you dont like it at all then just load up with turps and rub it off completely. When your done you should end up with something like this.

Sorry again for the bad photography  but you get the idea.  For ultra realism you can add a little pigment to the tops of the streaks do add more tones.  By also copying this with a buff/white mix of oil paint you can get some awsome water marks too! See its easy?! Better pics will come with the mud pigments. Hopefully.

Using rust pigments.

Ok guys as promised stage 2 of this bastion will be to paint all the areas you want heavily rusted scorched brown.  Easy eh?

The next stage is simply adding the pigments.  I've used Mig pigments, old rust, standard rust and new rust.  I also used thinners for washes from Mig as it will give me more working time than just using the fixer.
I mixed the thinners with the old rust on my palette and just painted it onto the brown areas.

Once you have done all that its time to employ the other two shades of rust. Rust is pretty random so take a dry brush and load it with pigment and tap and dab it ad hoc all over the rusty area. Repeat this with all the tones it your possession.

I'm concentrating on the door as its the largest area on this model and my photography is terrible.  Now its loaded with pigment take one medium to large brush or whatever you  are comfortable with and load it with the thinner for washes. Now take it to the pigment and as this is a vertical surface i will brush like wise to mix and blend the colours.  The thing with pigments is that until they dry you cant really see how its taking effect.

If when its dry you dont think its blended enough or you want to add more pigment that is fine to add more or to blend just use more thinner or take a dry brush a gently work the pigment about.

Adding pigment and then just gently touching it with the fixer will also give you texture as you can see on the door.  I realise this a quick run through but the basics are sound and weathering really needs to be experimented with.  You can add the pigment wet, dry with thinners or water and they all have their pros and cons but you really need to try them to learn how they behave. Being told really cant justify how easy and versatile these products are.

Adding depth to a large flat surface.

Ok here is the first part of the weathering series of tutorials ive used on this bastion.  I've tried to do it a way that shows that everyone can achieve a result that may not be professional but will make you surprise yourself.  I cant paint to a professionals standard, yet! But i try to better myself constantly and this will eventually lead to that goal.

First up we need one bastion thats been painted with Charadon granite then highlighted with various greys with an airbrush.
Now we need oil paints for this, just cheap one will do.  I suggest a yellow, blue, buff, brown, red and green.
Get them all on your palette like so.

Take your brush and in a random fashion put dots all over the model using all the colours. sounds messed up i know but trust me.

So far no skill required!! Take a large soft brush and dip it in some turps, or ordinary rubbing alcohol if your on a budget and then run it vertically on the model so the colours blend and will eventually look like they have disappeared.  It will look like you have just soaked the model in turpentine.

You can see on the picture that the geen stands out gently and one the alcohol/turps evapourates the results will be more apparent. Remember if its not to your liking just rub again with more turps to blend further.  As with all the stages random is the name of the game.
I chose more green oil as this is an old abandoned building and i wanted a lichen build up on the cement.

This technique also will work on armour vehicles and will add depth to an otherwise flat surface.

Finally seal the model with a satin varnish ready for the next stage.